The 70% stuff you get at drug stores is garbage and useless for resin cleaning and removal. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. That's the core issue in my opinion. When you press the 'Home' button in the Tools->Move Z menu, it should optically home...which is not the same as zero. Home is higher than Zero. It seems to me that your optical sensor is dislodged. These problems may have appeared when the other repairs to the printer were being made. I don't think you're going to be able to properly home or accurately set zero until you eliminate the play in the Z axis.I would read through all of those and see if any of them could apply to you.The Z stop on Photon doesn't have a lever, Photon uses a photosensor and a aluminum sheet cutout to level the build plate.When cleaning the film, I use the alcohol-based glass cleaner, and just daub the excess off with a paper towel or soft cloth. I then wipe it clean with a microfiber cloth. Don't rub it with anything else, as even a paper towel seems to scuff it.Here is a forum where people are losing Z on your very machine..I'll try and print it this evening.When you say the bed is bending, are you referring to the build plate that moves up and down?So why not try to source the exact same motor and lead screw combination? Thank you any help is greatly appreciated.I have updated the firmware to the latest. I would redo the leveling and zeroing process.The D7 uses a blade and sensor as well.
If the curing time is too low then the section will not cure enough and can be washed away during the alcohol rinse. Printed files and no issues then out of the blue get totally distorted prints. What happens to create Z-wobble in SLA and DLP 3D prints is that the build plate moves away from the FEP between layers but doesn’t land in exactly the same position every time it returns the print to the bottom of the VAT for printing on the next layer.
The build plate is then lowered slowly toward the screen using the LCD screen until the paper has friction on it. The first few layers print and stick (partially) to the build plate and then, nothing.
Maybe you got something different from what you ordered. I am getting quite desparate here.I did not see anywhere that you mentioned you confirmed the motor and screw was correct by comparing them side by side but at this point that is your only common link to your problem. Leveling is achieved by loosening the 4 screws that bolt the plate to the Z stage.
I have a Wanhao D7 which uses the same technology so I can see this on mine when the film gets hazy/cloudy. Not a big deal, but I have no idea what good print settings are for miniatures. Can someone help me out?Been using the Photon printer for a week now, managed to print of a couple of the test cubes on the USB stick.I've had several failed prints and even more successful prints with my Photon, but now I seem to have hit the wall.
Otherwise it looks like a clear window.Like I said, I have re-levelled and re-zeroed the machine several times after the issue appeared.I also don't remember how it was before, but if my memory doesn't fail me the build plate shouldn't keep moving so much after the beep at 0:28. The pressure from the build plate being forced to move lower than it's minimum z height makes everything flex. It almost feels like the motor is being instructed to do some extra steps which it shouldn't. Am I wrong?I loaded the .stl file and sliced it in Photon Slicer and ChiTuBox. There doesn't seem to be any anomalies with the file, and it printed fine on my printer.Any ideas how the tightness of the film can cause this? Two of the pins had to be swapped for the motor to rotate the correct angle but other than that it seems to work fine. But recently it's broken. You can tell when all the resin is removed from an area by the way the alcohol flows over the surface. I have previously printed this on my i3 Mega in PLA. The alcohol should evaporate leaving a clear film and marks, scratches, or traces of resin of done correctly.
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