A+!Every knot, no matter how perfect, weakens the rope. !Since its beginning, roped climbing has been dependent on the art of knots. However, there are tricks like tugging on the knot using the two strands on either side of it, or rolling the knot back and forth on a flat rock, that should eventually soften it up.This knot is the gold standard in climbing, and everyone who’s ever led (or even seconded) a pitch will know how to tie it. However, the double bowline is a safer variation of the bowline.Very likely you were taught to tie in with a figure eight when you first began climbing. Cord was approximately 4% higher. Those are approximate theoretical values though - a lot of factors can affect the strength of a knot. This article will focus specifically on two of the most common tie-in knots.I've never see anyone use a double bowline for climbing...interesting. Most of what has been tested is the strength of the knot, which is only one of the safety factors to consider in a knot. Note: The figure eight knot is recommended for all novice and intermediate climbers. The pros seem to be it's easier to untie. Pros and Cons. A Butterfly knot had the highest efficiency in the 10.5mm at … I believe a figure eight retains about 80% of the strength of the rope while a bowline is about 65%. Also, its easy-to-untie attribute can quickly become a con with stiff or new ropes, or for certain trad or chimney climbs where the rope may rub against the rock. HubPages Inc, a part of Maven Inc.Thanks for the positive comments!You could spend hours mining mountaineering and climbing forums for an answer, but you'll quickly come to realize that these forum commentators repeat themselves A LOT and that no one seems to have any real proof or data except "I use it and I haven't died yet." There are two basic tie-in knots climbers should be familiar with: The figure-8 follow-through and the double bowline with a back-up. There have been instances of bowlines coming untied with a new rope—one, in particular, high on a 30-meter 5.12 in Rifle, Colorado.If you’re pushing your limits and taking falls, then the figure 8 can be a pain in the butt to untie: It can cinch down super-tight after a fall and even become so fused that it’s “impossible” to undo—Weidner says her husband once had to cut the rope because of a fused figure 8. Here are some of the sources I took information from.Your picture at the top is a double figure eight not a figure eight.As a user in the EEA, your approval is needed on a few things.
We need to take into consideration other factors besides knot strength in order to make a choice between the two. While there is a great amount of literature demonstrating how to tie knots, specifically for boy scouts and sailors, there is not much research about the safety of knots specific to rock climbers.
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